Помандер як елемент західноєвропейського костюму XV – XVI століть

Abstract

Стаття присвячена відображенню у творах живопису низки європейських держав ренесансового і постренессансного періоду одного з найпопулярніших аксесуарів, які допов- нюють тогочасний костюм, – помандера. Стисло висвітлено основні причини виникнення та популяризації ароматниці у побуті західноєвропейських держав епохи пізнього Серед- ньовіччя та Відродження, проаналізовано самі помандери як твори ювелірного мистецтва, а також способи їх відображення у творах живопису портретного жанру.

Статья посвящена отображению в произведениях живописи ряда европейских держав возрожденческого и постренессансного периода одного из наиболее популярных аксессуаров, дополняющих костюм, – помандера. Кратко освещены основные причины возникновения и популяризации ароматниц в быту западноевропейских государств эпохи позднего Средневе- ковья и Возрождения, проанализированы сами помандеры как произведения ювелирного ис- кусства, а также способы их отображения в произведениях живописи портретного жанра.

The article is dedicated to the mapping of one of the most popular accessories, that complement the suit, Pomander, in the painting of several European states of Renaissance an postrenaissance periods. The major causes of creation and popularization of pomanders in some West European states of the late Middle Ages and Renaissance have been briefly analyzed. Pomander are described as works of jewelry, and the methods for their representation in the works of art of the portrait genre are analyzed. Since the Middle Ages, art and culture of Europe experienced the process of interpenetration of art that reached its apogee in the days of the Renaissance. From Renaissance masters fully answered because the definition that is usually used against them – a versatile personality. Universalism creative personality during the Renaissance in his homeland, in Italy, provided that the artist tried his hand in many areas of activity, and the results were equally successful. The question of universalism personality, a wide range of interests Renaissance masters repeatedly analyzed in scientific research (H. Wolfflin, D. and E. Panofski, M. Dvorak, A. Benes, B. Whipper, Dzh.-K. Argan, E. Haren, in . Lazarev, M. Alpatov, N. Maltsev, B. Rotenberg, A. Stepanov et al.). But despite the fact that Renaissance art is studied for many decades and scientific papers on the subject were published, apparently, almost all major languages of the world, the industry is that this time could literally be called "safe havens" in the study of Renaissance art. Such a fate befell jewelry, which resorted almost all versatile personality of the Renaissance, and later – many artists of Mannerism. Even the most famous masters of the Renaissance began their creative biography with what is now classified as works of decorative art. Mannerism, prone to exaggeration and dyvakuvatosti, complexity and sophistication of rhythm in composite solutions, manifested in clothes, tissues age, the nature of the design of accessories, respectively – in the work of jewelers. Each master of the German Renaissance goldsmith skills of passing, which in turn reflected and painting, sculpture and graphics – in extreme susceptibility to detail prorobtsi detail. In XV–XVI centuries. both male and female costume of French, Italian, Spanish types (dominant in those days) was supplemented by lots of accessories. They can be classified primarily into two types – those that existed purely for aesthetic pleasure (own jewelry – earrings, pendants and pendants, necklaces and chains, hair ornaments and hats, rings, Brochet, key chains, medallions), and those were not only ornaments, but had and functional value, fans, mirrors, gloves, dressing case, pincushion, small scissors, snuff, handkerchiefs, clutches, bags and wallets. Pomander was mentioned as an effective means to combat contagion – even in treatises on methods of controlling plague contained hints of wear, it was believed that when a person inhales fragrance, it avoids the risk of contracting the infection. Content pomanderiv Renaissance – a variety of fragrant herbs, aromatic substances, later it began to store ammonia. In this function, we outline another – using pomanderu own to kill bad odor, because in those days there was an urgent need to improve air due to the aforementioned reasons. There are several ways to wear a pomander, but mostly they were attached to the waist. In those times were in vogue so. Called. silver belt, which often served basis circuit elements divided with enamels or precious stones. Pomander and chain attached to a hand hanging from his fingers. The owner played it as an additional element fashion while the rings, so unobtrusively using for other purposes. Eventually pomandery losing popularity, which had in the XV–XVI centuries., Fade into the background, but occasionally can be seen using this refined accessory in different countries, not just Europe. They continue to meet in the interior, responsible for the form and stylistic features décor trim requirements. Unfortunately, explore pomandery as works of jewelry and important elements of dress might mainly due to the image of the portraits of those times. As aromatnytsi as jewelry made of precious metals and lavishly decorated, the vast majority suffered the fate of traditional jewelry of the past – they disappeared from the art scene.